How dare dare you speak Chinese in China!
After eight months in Jinan, I decided to visit Urumqi for a week. Now, after about eight months of not seeing many white faces, I was shocked at the number of 'tourists' crawling all over the city when I'd first arrived. Now that was suspicious, so I decided to investigate. First off, it seemed that except for downtown, you had the whites on one side of the city, and the yellows on the other. Well, Sinse downtown was the first place I came across, after getting off from a 50 hour train ride, I'd noticed whites and yellows sometimes intermixing, and so would listen into their conversations. What?!! They spoke Chinese as if they were, how can I put this, ehm, Chinese! Now what 'tourist' would go through the bother of learning Chinese to that level of fluency?
So I then decided to retire for the night, and do some more exploration the next day. That's when I'd discovered the little bit of segregation outside the city centre. Now the 'white' side was a little poorer than the yellow (understatement here), and the dress was quite diverse to say the least, especially among the women. Some wore hijab, others, the full burqa, with only the eyes showing, others, traditional Chinese, others North American jeans, and others still, European chique, or varying mixtures of these. The two funniest parts were when once I got checked out by a woman of whom I could see nothing but her eyes poking out of her all-black clothing, and the other was of a full burqa-clad woman sitting down and having another, wearing really sexy European style walking within two feet of her. Overall, the white side of downtown was most interesting with its bazars selling Persian rugs, prayer mats, and mutton kebabs, with Arab script everywhere accompanied by Chinese characters. If I hadn't known any better, I would have thought I was in Istanbul, except for the overwelming presence of yellows in the city centre, and the generally typically modern communist Chinese construction design for most buildings downtown, along with the Chinese Characters in most places.
So I decided to walk out of the city centre going deeper into the white side, where I was really starting to blend in, except for the fact that, while they were babbling away in Uighur (pretty much a dialect of Tukish), I couldn't undertand a word they'd say except for the odd one of Arabic origin!
So there I was, walking through a bazar and hungry, so decided to buy some dried fruit.
I asked the woman behind the table, in Chinese, "How much is this?" pointing to the dried fruit rolls.
To which she responded, in Perfect Chinese, "Why are you speaking Chinese; can't you speak Uighur?"
Hmmm. How to repond to that? Well, I suddenly tried to immagine myself in Montreal, started apologizing, in Chinese, for speaking Chinese, only to be blasted again (thank God I knew French before I'd gone to the province of Quebec; now I can understand how some monolingual anglos might feel in Montreal!).
So why was I was I blasted again, you might ask? Because I'd used the word 'Putonghua' (lierally, Common Langauge, i.e, Mandarin Chinese), instead of the prefered 'Hanyu' (i.e., the language of the Han, or Han language, the Han being the majority ethnic group in China.
So after apologizing for the use of the wrong choice of words for describing Chinese, while still speaking chinese of course, and the woman just getting even more irate, I had to explain that I was not a local! And that I had studied chinese (using the proper local terminology this time of course) in Jinan, to which she finally accepted to use Chinese for the sell. After that experience, I couldn't help but feel as if I was back in Montreal, where I'd witnessed a good share of language scraps there too. I guess we really are all the same, aren't we?
That's it for that one. We'll see what I type next.