Natural Lawn Care

[karrie]

http://www.eartheasy.com/grow_lawn_care.htm

Natural Lawn Care

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]<[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]grow [/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]>[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Healthy lawn basicshttp://www.eartheasy.com/grow_lawn_care.htm#b
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]New reel lawn mowers[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Tips for sustainable lawn care[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Natural lawn care supplies[/FONT]
[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]

• Visit Eartheasy's online store[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
Lawns do more than make your yard look good.[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]

Lawns absorb water, which helps reduce storm runoff and improve water quality. Lawns also have a significant cooling effect, provide oxygen, trap dust and dirt, promote healthful micro-organisms, prevent erosion and filter rainwater contaminants.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Lawn care, however, has come at a high cost to the environment.[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] According to the U.S. National Wildlife Federation:[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]30% of water used on the East Coast goes to watering lawns; 60% on the West Coast.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]18% of municipal solid waste is composed of yard waste.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The average suburban lawn received 10 times as much chemical pesticide per acre as farmland.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Over 70 million tons of fertilizers and pesticides are applied to residential lawns and gardens annually. (Read Healthy lawns, healthy lungs) [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Per hour of operation, a gas lawn mower emits 10-12 times as much hydrocarbon as a typical auto. A weedeater emits 21 times more and a leaf blower 34 times more.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Where pesticides are used, 60 - 90% of earthworms are killed. Earthworms are important for soil health.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Much of the environmental cost associated with lawn care can be avoided.[/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Healthy Lawn Basics[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The only way to reduce a dependence on chemical fertilizers is to develop a healthy lawn, which is naturally resistant to weeds, insects and diseases. If you need to fertilize your lawn more than once a year, consider these ways of improving the natural health of your lawn:[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]1. Improve the Soil[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
The first step is to test the soil's pH - it should read between 6.5 and 7.0, which is slightly acidic. Soil that is too acidic will need a sprinkling of lime; sulfur can be added to soil which is not acidic enough. You can buy a pH tester (see below, this page) for $40 - $60. Another solution is to have your soil tested professionally; first call your extension office - they often provide soil testing as a free service.
Lawns grow best in loamy soils that have a mix of clay, silt and sand. Too much clay in the soil mix, or heavy use, can compact the soil and prevent air and nutrient flow. Compacted soil may need aeration, a process of lifting small plugs of turf to create air spaces in the soil. For best results, rent an aerator or hire a lawn service to do the job - this will remove "finger size" plugs which improves aeration. Aeration is best done before top dressing and fertilizing.
Organic matter, such as compost and grass clippings, will benefit any type of soil; it lightens soil which is heavy in clay, and it builds humus in sandy soils, which helps retain water and nutrients.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]2. Choose a Locally Adapted Grass [/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Grasses vary in the type of climate they prefer, the amount of water and nutrients required, shade tolerance and the degree of wear they can withstand. Ask your local garden center to recommend grass which is best adapted to your area.3. Mow Often, but Not Too Short Giving your lawn a "Marine cut" is not doing it a favor. Surface roots become exposed, the soil dries out faster and surface aeration is reduced. As a general rule, don't cut off more than one-third of the grass at any one time. Most turf grass species are healthiest when kept between 2.5 and 3.5" tall.4. Water Deeply but Not Too OftenThorough watering encourages your lawn to develop deep root systems which make the lawn hardier and more drought-resistant. Let the lawn dry out before re-watering; as a rule of thumb, the color should dull and footprints should stay compressed for more than a few seconds. When watering, put a cup in the sprinkler zone; it should get at least one inch (2.5cm) water.
The best time for watering is early morning - less water will be lost to evaporation. Ideally, it's better to water the first half-inch or so, then wait for an hour or two before watering the second half-inch. 5. Control Thatch Build-Up
Thatch is the accumulation of above-soil runners, propagated by the grass. This layer should be about 1/2" ( 1.25cm) on a healthy lawn, and kept in balance by natural decomposition, earthworms and microorganisms. Too much thatch prevents water and nutrients from reaching the grass roots.
You can reduce thatch with a steel rake, or by renting a de-thatcher which does a more thorough job. [/FONT]



[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Watering needs for different grass types[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]How long can you wait between waterings before the lawn starts to go brown?

12 - 21 days: Bahia grass, Buffalo gass, Bermuda grass, St. Augustine grass, Centipede grass
8 - 12 days: Carpet grass, Fine fescue, Kikuyu grass, Seashore paspalum, Tall fescue, Zoysia
5 - 7 days: Ryegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, Bentgrass

The fine-leaved fescues (grass blades) as well as the "common" types of Kentucky bluegrasses, such as Park and Kenblue, require less water, fertilizer and cutting than turf-type perennial ryegrass or many of the newer "improved" types of Kentucky bluegrass.

Source: University of Georgia, College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The new reel lawn mowers[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Times have changed.[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
Push mowers (reel mowers) used to be heavy, clunky contraptions which required great effort in cutting the lawn.
A new generation of reel mowers has been designed, however, which operate much more effectively with a fraction of the effort.

The added benefits include a good light exercise and pollution-free lawn care.

Consider the advantages of a reel mower:[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Better Cut.[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Reel mowers shear the grass rather than tearing it. Most rotary mowers tear the grass which leaves the tips shredded, and the tips soon turn brown. A sheared cut gives a greener lawn, and is preferred by lawn care professionals.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Quiet. [/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]You can cut the lawn anytime without disturbing the neighbors or the wildlife. Listen to the birds as you cut the lawn!
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Non-polluting.[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The savings in fuel is significant to both the environment and your wallet. No more dead spark plugs, messy oil changes or stored fuel.[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Easier.[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Today's reel mowers are lighter, easier to push and more effective than the old push mowers. The light weight also makes it easier to move from front to back yard, or lift into a pickup.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Low maintenance.[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Aside from the occassional drop of oil and blade sharpening, there's little maintenance required. Some models have blades made of hardened steel which do not require sharpening. These blades will last up to ten years before needing replacement.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Inexpensive.[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] With prices ranging from $100 to $350, the cost of a reel mower is less than half that of a lower-end power mower.[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]If you have a small to medium size lawn, switching from a gas mower to a reel mower may be the biggest environmental savings you can make from your home. If your lawn is large, you can use a reel mower for small or isolated sections, or for a helper to use. Whenever your reel mower is being used, the result is cleaner air.[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Article:Switching to a reel mower - a first hand experience changing from power to push.[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Read[/FONT]
.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Buy a reel mower online[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]

You can buy a reel mower right now from Eartheasy's online store. Click any of the links here to see some different models.
In our online store you'll also see electric and cordless rotary mowers. (US sales only) [/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Sunlawn Reel Mower[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]$175.00[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Sunlawn Lightweight Reel Mower[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]$159.00 [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Sunlawn Electric Reel Mower[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]$295.00[/FONT]

Bully Push Mower
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This 15" Easy Push Mower has a five-blade reel for a perfect cut, hardened steel blades, ball bearing wheels, and easy spin gearing. At 18 lbs., it's much lighter weight than other reel mowers on the market.
Price: $99.95 Bully Push Mower[/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Tips for Sustainable Lawn Care[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]How to spend less on fertilizer, pesticides and water, and save energy and time on lawn maintenance.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]• Water early in the morning.[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Much of the water from daytime watering is lost to evaporation. Avoid overwatering - it's more damaging than underwatering.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] • Leave clippings on the lawn.[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Sometimes referred to as "grass-cycling", this provides nutrients equivalent to one application of fertilizer. Clippings do not cause thatch. Mulching mowers are also available which help the clippings hide in the grass. If you mow the lawn before it gets too tall, the clippings left on the lawn will quickly disappear from view. Of course this technique also saves hauling yard waste to the landfill - some states have banned yard waste from landfills.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]• Observe the weeds.[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Dandelions thrive at a pH level of about 7.5, and are a sign to add gardeners sulfur to lower the pH. Clover and medic are sign that your lawn may be nitrogen poor, and needs compost or a nitrogen-weighted fertilizer.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]• Fertilize once or twice a year.[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] This is sufficient for an attractive lawn.Cool season grasses are semi-dormant in the summer; fertilizing during summer will be ineffective. Fertilizing in early fall promotes vigorous lawn growth the next spring.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]• Use a fertilizer with time-released, water insoluble nitrogen. These fertilizers are less likely to burn your lawn with excess nitrogen, and slow-release allows the roots to absorb the nutrients as needed. In most instances, choose fertilizers containing at least 35% - 50% of their nitrogen supply in the "slow-release" form, such as sulfur-coated urea, methylene urea or various natural organic products. With fast-acting fertilizers, some nutrients are washed away with watering or rain, and the wasted fertilizer pollutes ground water supplies.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]• Control lawn weeds with corn gluten.[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] A nontoxic byproduct of corn processing, corn gluten kills weed seedlings within days of application. It also adds nitrogen to your soil. Just one application, before weeds emerge, reduced weed survival by 60%, according to research at Iowa State University. After several years, this method provides as much as 90% weed control. See our page on corn gluten for more info, online sources and product names.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]• Keep pesticide/herbicide use to a minimum. Pesticides kill the soil organisms which contribute to a healthy lawn. The sooner you remove harsh chemicals, the faster your soil will recover. Repeated past use of toxic chemicals may have destroyed the microbiotic life that exists in healthy soil; it will take time, at least a season, for the soil to begin to recover. If lawn chemicals are used, clean out pesticide and fertilizer applicators and empty containers on the lawn, where the residue will be utilized. Do not clean out on sidewalks or driveways, or residue will go directly into water supplies.
• 'Spot-treat' weeds with vinegar to minimize herbicide use. Where only a few scattered broadleaf weeds such as dandelions or plantain are present, consider spot-treating individual weeds with household vinegar rather than applying a broadcast treatment of an herbicide over the entire lawn. (Vinegar can burn grass and garden plants, so be sure to spot treat weeds only.) Physically pulling or cutting weeds is also effective; remove as much of the root system as possible to reduce the chance of regrowth.
• Problem with lawn grubs? For lawn grubs, there is a natural remedy called milky spore

. The granules are spread on the soil and cause the grubs to contract a disease that kills them. Only the grubs are affected, leaving beneficial organisms unharmed. Milky spore multiplies over time and will sit inactive, waiting for grubs to infect. One treatment is said to last 40 years. The grubs are actually the larvae of Japanese beetles. So, when you kill the grubs you kill the beetle.• Hand raking. If the clippings are too long and must be raked, try hand raking. This light aerobic exercise will save you a trip to the gym. If you have fallen leaves to rake, don't burn them - they make excellent mulch for flower or garden beds, or can be added to your compost pile where they'll be converted to rich, organic humus for the garden.[/FONT]





[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Large Lawns and Golf Courses[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Large lawns, and especially golf courses, require large amount of herbicides and chemical fertilizers to maintain their condition and appearance. The impact on the environment is considerable.

Recent experiments using organic compost have shown this method to be very promising. Generally, researchers and practitioners recognize that incorporating high-quality compost does several things:
1. Adds food and nutrients for plants and organisms,
2. Adds a diversity of organisms to the soil,
3. Encourages plant growth promoting substances in soils.
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
For a detailed report on the science, application methods and results,[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] read our article. [/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]



[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Natural Lawn Care Supplies:[/FONT]

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Source for environmentally-friendly lawn and garden supplies
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Environmentally responsible lawn and garden products, such as corn gluten based fertilizers (below), natural pest control, supplies for home orchards and more..[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Click here to visit their site.[/FONT]

PrEmerge® - corn gluten based weed control
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]All-natural pre-emergence weed control adds nitrogen to your beautiful organic lawn while preventing new weeds from sprouting!

Apply in early spring, 3 - 5 weeks before weeds begin to sprout. Apply again in late fall.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Price: $16.95 (6 lb bag, treats 250 sq. ft.) more info, or to purchase[/FONT]
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Milky Spore - long-lasting, natural control for lawn grubs
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Produced to USDA standards, Milky Spore is the safest material ever developed for control over the larvae (grubs) of Japanese Beetles. Milky Spore is not harmful to beneficial insects, birds, bees, pets or man. It is safe to use around wells.
10 oz. can treats: 2,500 square feet more info
40 oz. can treats: 10,000 square feet more info[/FONT]


Accugrow™ Soil Test Kit[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
You can easily perform a soil test whenever the need arises -- and get immediate results. This kit includes test strips that measure pH, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium; activating solution; a mixing vial and soil scoop. Booklet explains how to identify soil types, how to analyze test results and correct soil imbalances for garden plants, lawns and potted houseplants.
Price: $39.95 AccugrowT Soil Test Kit

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Grub Patch Lawn Repair Kit[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
Scattered, irregularly shaped patches of dead grass and thinning areas of lawn are typical symptoms of grub damage. Japanese beetle grubs, masked chafer beetle grubs, and other white grubs cause unsightly damage to lawns while living underground and feeding on the roots of turfgrass. This kit contains everything you need to stop the grubs that are killing your grass and repair the damaged patches they’ve caused.
Price: $24.95 Grub Patch Lawn Repair Kit

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Compost Tumbler[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Convert your lawn clippings to valuable compost in as little as 13 days. The fully sealed system is also ideal for urban gardens and homes with small yards. [/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
Click here for more information.[/FONT]

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[Lester]

I used to have to cut my grandmothers lawn every other Saturday when I was about ten, she had one of those cast iron behemoths. I can still remember grunting and sweating profusely trying to cut what seemed like a small meadow- My reward ..a quarter, tight fisted old slave driver

 

[earth_as_one]

How about reducing the size of your lawn or getting rid of it all together?

We are in the middle of the greatest mass extinction event since the dinosaurs disappeared 65 million years ago:

...There is little doubt left in the minds of professional biologists that Earth is currently faced with a mounting loss of species that threatens to rival the five great mass extinctions of the geological past, the most devasting being the Third major Extinction (c. 245 mya), the Permian, where 54% of the planet's species families lost. As long ago as 1993, Harvard biologist E.O. Wilson estimated that Earth is currently losing something on the order of 30,000 species per year -- which breaks down to the even more daunting statistic of some three species per hour. Some biologists have begun to feel that this biodiversity crisis -- this "Sixth Extinction" -- is even more severe, and more imminent, than Wilson had supposed.

With the human population expected to reach 9-10 billion by the end of the century and the planet in the middle of its sixth mass extinction — this time due to human activity — the next few years are critical in conserving Earth’s precious biodiversity. The cause of the Sixth Extinction, Homo sapiens, means we can continue on the path to our own extinction, or, preferably, we modify our behavior toward the global ecosystem of which we are still very much a part....

http://www.dailygalaxy.com/my_weblog/2008/02/the-6th-great-m.html

Our "managed" landscapes contribute to the current mass extinction by "habitat loss".

When we replace natural areas with suburban landscapes, we change the plants from native species to foreign grasses (lawn) and non-native/exotic/hybridized trees, shrubs, flowers... A lawn doesn't much contribute to biodiversity.

Instead of fighting a war on weeds, why not consider peacefully coexisting with nature? Here are some links to the movement to garden with native species.

Curious about native plants? Interested in a beautiful, low-maintenance landscape? Concerned about health and water quality? Or did you just stumble on to this page by accident?
Regardless, we welcome you and hope we can satisfy or pique your curiosity. In the pages that follow, we will introduce some basic Concepts of landscaping with native plants, referred to by many as "naturescaping," and follow that with Steps you can take to get started. Note that we will use the phrases "naturescaping" and "landscaping with native plants" interchangeably. You may also be familiar with the phrase "xeriscaping" which refers to landscaping with drought resistant plants, though not necessarily native plants.
In the Concepts below, we will discuss:

• "relearning" landscaping,
• traditional landscaping v. naturescaping,
• the benefits of naturescaping, and
• the "two-camps."

This is followed by the Steps, beginning on the next page, which are followed by Designing for Wildlife, Special Considerations (new home, hedges, bio-swales, etc.), Propagating Native Plants and some Examples. ... Ready?....

http://www.plantnative.com/how_intro.htm

Also you could become a member of this society

North American Native Plant Society

The beauty of native plants, however, is not confined to its flowers. Sedges, mosses, grasses, and ferns all possess their own elegance and hold important places in the natural order. Native plants provide sustenance and habitat for a wide array of creatures -- ranging from invertebrates to large mammals -- with which they have co-evolved over thousands of years.

Unfortunately, widespread disturbances of natural areas have resulted in drastic reductions of native plant populations. The natural areas that do remain are increasingly degraded by invasive alien species such as purple loosestrife, garlic mustard, and buckthorn. Exotic species such as dandelion and Queen Anne's Lace, have overtaken the diverse landscapes of native wildflowers to such an extent that many people believe them to be native.

Our goal is to reverse this trend. Through education and information we aim to inspire an appreciation of North America's native plants -- aiding the restoration of healthy ecosystems across the continent...

http://www.nanps.org/about.aspx

Its more than plants. Once you re-introduce native plants, you will see an increase in birds, butterflies, amphibians... and all the other life which makes up a healthy ecosystem... Instead of being part of the problem, you become part of the solution.

 

[karrie]

Oh boy, I could just see how ticked my neighbors would be, and how unsaleable my house would be. While I get it to some extent (nature scaping is what we hope to do for our flower beds), eliminating a lawn all together doesn't need to be the only solution.

 

[earth_as_one]

Wildflowers aren't as showy or last as long, but done right they can be extraordinarily:

Trilliums:

Moist Prairie With Joe-Pye weed,
Iron Weed & Blazing Star
Ojibway Prairie
Windsor, Ontario

Purple Agalinas in crack
in limestone pavement
Pendall Point, Bruce

The idea that everyone has to have a monoculture of non-native grasses is recent phenomenon. What did we do before we had lawn mowers and round up?

Personally I thinks its a conspiracy by the lawn and garden industry. They've convinced us that in order to be good neighbors we have to poison each other with their products.

Its a good thing the petrochemical industry hasn't convinced us that our lakes would be more beautiful if they had a surface layer petrochemicals. Ever notice how beautiful an oil slick is? It as all the colors of the rainbow. So much more aesthetically pleasing than just boring blue, don't you think? Also who wants air you can't see? Responsible neighbors should be adding chemicals to the air to make it look nice.

Does the above sound ridiculous?

I think its ridiculous that we put so much time and effort into turning our lanscapes into a barren biocide polluted wasteland of exotic plants which contribute to the ongoing mass extinction event. Imagine the difference it would make if people put as much effort into natural habitat restoration as we currently put into natural habitat destruction?

 

[karrie]

It is slowly changing. We don't use chemicals here personally. We hand weed. We rarely water. In a drought we let the lawn go dormant. If it can't handle the weather, let it sleep is my opinion. We're planning on expanding flower beds, adding trees for shade, taking a lot of the stress off the grass. But, I can't beat the feel of lawn. I love it. I'm spoiled. I want to be able to walk barefoot in my back yard, at least, some small space in it, and feel and smell that grass. I'll just find more responsible ways of doing it.

 

[earth_as_one]

I'm not sure what you mean by weeds. But cutting vegatation short (Lawn mower) encourages plant species which require light for germination. (Dandelions, ragweed, thistles). Typically you won't find dandelions in a mature forest:

See any weeds?

But how to get there?

wiki

Secondary succession is one of the two types of ecological succession of plant life. As opposed to primary succession, secondary succession is a process started by an event[1] (e.g. forest fire, harvesting, hurricane lawn mower) that reduces an already established ecosystem (e.g. a forest or a wheat field) to a smaller population of species, and as such secondary succession occurs on preexisting soil where as primary succession usually occurs in a place lacking soil. A harvested forest going back from being a cleared forest to its original state, the "climax community" (a term to use cautiously), is an example of secondary succession. Each stage a community goes through on its way to the climax community in succession can be referred to as a "serial community."
Simply put, secondary succession is the succession that occurs after the initial succession has been disrupted.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secondary_succession

Every time you mow your lawn you set the clock back to day 1.

wiki

Restoration ecology is the study of renewing a degraded, damaged, or destroyed ecosystem through active human intervention. Restoration ecology specifically refers to the scientific study that has evolved as recently as the 1980s. Land managers, laypeople, and stewards have been practicing restoration for many hundreds, if not thousands of years (Anderson 2005), yet the scientific field of "restoration ecology" was first identified and coined in the late 1980s by John Aber and William Jordan. The study of restoration ecology has only become a robust and independent scientific discipline over the last two decades (Young et. al 2005).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Restoration_ecology

So if people don't want "weeds" or pioneer species why do they keep recreating the ideal conditions for them?:dontknow:

Why not re-examine the what you are doing from this perspective?

The land ethic is a perspective on environmental ethics first championed by Aldo Leopold in his book A Sand County Almanac.

The prevailing ethos for the US Forest Service in his day, from the founder of the USFS, Gifford Pinchot, was economic and utilitarian, while Leopold argued for an ecological approach, one of the earliest popularizers of this term created by Henry Chandler Cowles of the University of Chicago during his early 1900's research at the Indiana Dunes. Conservation became the preferred term for the more anthropocentric model of resource management, while the writing of Leopold and his inspiration, John Muir, led to the development of environmentalism.

Leopold argues that the next step in the evolution of ethics is the expansion of ethics to include nonhuman members of the biotic community, collectively referred to as "the land." Leopold states the basic principle of his land ethic as, "A thing is right when it tends to preserve the integrity, stability, and beauty of the biotic community. It is wrong when it tends otherwise."

He also describes it in this way: "The land ethic simply enlarges the boundaries of the community to include soils, waters, plants, and animals, or collectively: the land...[A] land ethic changes the role of Homo sapiens from conqueror of the land-community to plain member and citizen of it. It implies respect for his fellow-members, and also respect for the community as such."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land_Ethic

Our time here is temporary. Other species have a right to existance.

I'm not sugesting growing dandelions. Quite the contrary:

An Introduction to Rare Plants of Ontario

This website is intended to educate the public about rare plants in Ontario. We have selected 12 plants to showcase in our database and have provided a complete list of rare plants in Canada. For complete scientific information on all plants, select one of the sites from our links page.

Introduction
Ontario's Flora - Background Information

Vegetation Zones
Ontario's Plant Geography - Climate, Glaciation and Vegetation
Bedrock geology
Soil texture and composition
Available water

Distribution of Rare Species

http://www.rbg.ca/rare/epo_intro.htm

See any endangered species here?

I used to see the above as somthing desirable, but that was before I realized what it was:

A barren biocide polluted wasteland of exotic plants which contribute to the ongoing mass extinction event.

What do you see? The "old Hag" or a "young women"

I think its ridiculous that we put so much time and effort into turning our lanscapes into a barren biocide polluted wasteland of exotic plants which contribute to the ongoing mass extinction event.

 

[karrie]

I think its ridiculous that we put so much time and effort into turning our lanscapes into a barren biocide polluted wasteland of exotic plants which contribute to the ongoing mass extinction event.

The whole idea of this thread was to discuss ways to have a lawn that ISN'T barren, pesticide soaked, OR a wasteland. The methods it discusses are many of the ones my hubby and I use (mulching, cutting high and rarely, topdressing, manual 'weeding' because no, I don't like thistles in my feet). And we spend way less time on our yard than most people. It also stays green longer when hot weather hits, despite not receiving the liberal waterings that others' lawns do.

 

[Tonington]

Karrie, did you and hubby ever consider a rain barrel? My father has one that he uses when the hot dry season hits in Southern Alberta. He has a pretty good sized garden plot, but you could use it for the lawn too.

 

[karrie]

Karrie, did you and hubby ever consider a rain barrel? My father has one that he uses when the hot dry season hits in Southern Alberta. He has a pretty good sized garden plot, but you could use it for the lawn too.

You could, but it would really only get you an extra little bit, and it only takes one good rain for the lawn to bounce back.. Grass is a marvelous thing. Why stress about it? And I do have enough plants in flower beds that a rain barrel would be used largely for them. When we put up the downspouts, there will be water collection at each side of the house (we just redid the siding and fascia, so we need new eavestrough). I figure if we're going to put the money into installing spouts, now's the time to put money into decent water collection as well.

 

[karrie]

Okay, so, a tidbit about my weeding practices. When we moved into this house, it had clearly been treated poorly for many years (much like the rest of the property). The soil has almost nothing organic left, the grass was sheared to the root, and there were a heavy, heavy population of dandelions and thistle. We are slowly but surely trying to get this lawn back from the brink of disaster so that it looks respectable, until we can get flower beds and such in.

Part of trying to get it back was getting the weeds out and letting the poor lawn grow in.

My fave for weeding... the grampa weeder.

I love love love this tool (and the price, I think I paid 12 at Rona for it), and even the kids can run out and pluck a few stray weeds here and there.

Now I just need to find a good turf repair method to fill in the holes. lol.

 

[FUBAR]

Hi karrie, I usually fill any holes with sand and topsoil mix then put some matching grass seed on the top after taking out any weeds.

Royal Horticultural Society - Gardening Advice: Repairing Lawns

Lawn care guide on repair, turf, mowing, weeds etc - Garden Advice

 

[earth_as_one]

The whole idea of this thread was to discuss ways to have a lawn that ISN'T barren, pesticide soaked, OR a wasteland. The methods it discusses are many of the ones my hubby and I use (mulching, cutting high and rarely, topdressing, manual 'weeding' because no, I don't like thistles in my feet). And we spend way less time on our yard than most people. It also stays green longer when hot weather hits, despite not receiving the liberal waterings that others' lawns do.

karrie, your efforts to use less chemicals and more natural products and elbow grease are commendable. Don't consider my rant a personal attack. It is not my intent to criticize you or anyone else. If I came off sounding like that I'm sorry. My intent was just to offer another viewpoint on land ethic. One not promoted by the lawn and garden industry. I'm not sure if you understand what I'm getting at. Let me try again.

What do you see when you look at this image?

Two images exist in this drawing. There is an "old hag" and a "young women". Everyone initially sees one image or the other. But both images are there. Once you see the second image, its obvious and you wonder how you couldn't see it in the first place.

Can you see both images?

I don't think anyone is dumb if they can only see one image. I also understand that no matter how much I try to explain there are two images in the above drawing, many people will see only one.

Believe me, I understand what you are trying to achieve. I started out using chemicals to get rid of weeds in my lawn. Then I went to natural products. Now I question the wisdom of trying to achieve a "weed free" lawn.

When I looked at images like the one below I used to see the perfect lawn:

Now I see the grasses which make up a lawn as pest species.

That change happened when I became involved in natural habitat restoration projects and I came to understand the destructiveness of landscaping norms. That's why I see a barren wasteland.

Can anyone else see the barren wasteland in the image above?

 

[karrie]

Okay, since we got sidetracked onto the notion of naturscaping, here's another naturscaping idea that might interest some.