Inside the secret tunnels of the White Cliffs of Dover

Blackleaf

Hall of Fame Member
Oct 9, 2004
48,476
1,671
113
An incredible labyrinth of forgotten Second World War tunnels built beneath the White Cliffs of Dover will reopen to the public today for the first time in 40 years.

The Fan Bay Deep Shelter was carved out of chalk in just 100 days in the 1940s as part of Dover’s connected gun battery armaments aimed at foiling Nazi shipping movements in the Channel.

After remaining bricked up for more than 40 years, it will open to the public today following an 18-month project and 3,000 man hours of restoration work.

Lying 75ft below the Kent coastline, the 3,500 sq ft of interconnecting tunnels, which are reinforced with iron girders and metal sheeting, accommodated four officers and up to 185 men during the war.

The shelter - which was personally inspected by Winston Churchill in 1941 - was decommissioned in the 1950s before being filled in with rubble and soil and abandoned during the 1970s.

Officials at the National Trust say the tunnels are a 'time capsule', giving fascinating insights into war-time life, with graffiti-covered walls, discarded ammunition and even a pools coupon found in the depths.

Inside the secret tunnels of the White Cliffs of Dover: Network built to help stop Nazi ships during WWII opens to the public after being hidden for 40 years


The long-forgotten Fan Bay Deep Shelter was carved out of the White Cliffs of Dover in 1940 at behest of Churchill

He ordered their construction to house gun battery teams as they pounded German ships traversing the Channel

Lying 75ft below the Kent coastline, the 3,500 sq ft of interconnecting tunnels once housed up to 185 soldiers

After remaining bricked up for more than 40 years, they will today open to the public for hard hat and torch-lit tour


By Corey Charlton for MailOnline
20 July 2015
Daily Mail


The White Cliffs of Dover are one of the great icons of Britain


An incredible labyrinth of forgotten Second World War tunnels built beneath the White Cliffs of Dover will reopen to the public today for the first time in 40 years.

The Fan Bay Deep Shelter was carved out of chalk in just 100 days in the 1940s as part of Dover’s connected gun battery armaments aimed at foiling Nazi shipping movements in the Channel.

After remaining bricked up for more than 40 years, it will open to the public today following an 18-month project and 3,000 man hours of restoration work.


National Trust Project Manager Jon Barker (left) and volunteer Gordon Wise wear head torches to inspect the underground tunnels at Dover


Built in 1940, the tunnels were home to gun battery teams operating on the coastline during the Second World War. Pictured is Mr Wise - one of hundreds of volunteers who helped restore the tunnels


Located 75ft below the coastline, Mr Wise explores the tunnels as the National Trust prepares to open them to the public today



Lying 75ft below the Kent coastline, the 3,500 sq ft of interconnecting tunnels, which are reinforced with iron girders and metal sheeting, accommodated four officers and up to 185 men during the war.

The shelter - which was personally inspected by Winston Churchill in 1941 - was decommissioned in the 1950s before being filled in with rubble and soil and abandoned during the 1970s.

Officials at the National Trust say the tunnels are a 'time capsule', giving fascinating insights into war-time life, with graffiti-covered walls, discarded ammunition and even a pools coupon found in the depths.

Following their rediscovery, 100 tonnes of rubble and soil were removed by hand in a project involving more than 50 National Trust volunteers, archaeologists, mine consultants, engineers and a geologist.

Jon Barker, visitor experience manager at the White Cliffs, said: 'This rediscovered piece of the country’s Second World War heritage is a truly remarkable find.

'There has been no public access to the tunnels for over 40 years and so they remain much as they were when they were abandoned.

We’ve carried out extensive conservation work to preserve both the natural decay and authentic atmosphere of the space.'


Following their rediscovery, 100 tonnes of rubble and soil were removed by hand in a project involving more than 50 National Trust volunteers


There has been no public access to the tunnels for more than 40 years, but starting tomorrow, they will be reopened for tours


The shelter was carved out of the chalk by Royal Engineers from the 172nd Tunnelling Company in 1940. Pictured is graffiti dated January 20, 1941


A stone carving of a man's head was discovered during the restoration


The shelter was carved out of the chalk by Royal Engineers from the 172nd Tunnelling Company and had a hospital, secure store and five large chambers providing bomb-proof accommodation.

And behind the heavy security doors and the 125 steps descending to the tunnels lie poignant reminders of the tunnel’s war-time history.

Etched into the chalk inside the tunnels is a large amount of graffiti, including names of military personnel, coarse inscriptions and an intricate 3D face of a young man, possibly a portrait.

Some of the inscriptions are accompanied by the regiment of soldiers, most notably from the Royal Engineers - 1941 is the most popular date which features alongside the signatures.

Written in chalk on a steel shuttering alongside where a bunk bed once stood is the phrase 'Russia bleeds whilst Britain Blancos' - a popular slogan adopted by disaffected soldiers referring to Blanco, a substance they used to clean and colour their equipment.

Other finds included pieces of wire twisted into home-made hooks by soldiers to hang their uniforms, and a Unity Pools football coupon dated February 20, 1943, recording 14 football matches.

One of the first discoveries made by volunteers when they entered the tunnels was of a needle and thread, believed to be khaki wool, tucked into the tunnel wall.


Pictured is graffiti found etched into the walls inside the tunnels. Pieces of writing, inscriptions and items offer a rare glimpse into wartime Britain


Pictured is one of two First World War sound mirrors which are also located at the site. Sound mirrors gave advanced notice of approaching enemy aircraft but became obsolete with the invention of radar in the 1930s

Bullets, including British .303 cartridges and American 30 calibre ammunition rounds, were also found throughout the tunnels, often tucked into small gaps in metal sheeting.

Two rare First World War sound mirrors also form part of the site.

Regarded as one of the first early warning devices invented in Britain, sound mirrors gave advanced notice of approaching enemy aircraft but became obsolete with the invention of radar technology in the 1930s.

White Cliffs volunteer Gordon Wise said: 'Seeing the tunnels in their raw state when they were first discovered, handling artefacts and giving tours is like standing in the footsteps of history.

'To be part of the digging team, mirroring the work the Royal Engineers originally took to excavate the shelter, was very special. I can’t wait to see what visitors make of Fan Bay Deep Shelter.'

The tunnels - once manned by troops from the 203rd Coast Battery, Royal Artillery, later becoming the 540th Coast Regiment - lie beneath land bought by the National Trust in 2012 following a £1.2million public appeal.

Guides will lead hard hat and torch-lit tours deep below the White Cliffs of Dover, telling people the story of the tunnels’ creation, use and abandonment in the 1970s.

The National Trust is asking for help in identifying the men from the 172nd Tunnelling Company, the 203rd Coast Battery and 540th Coast Regiment, Royal Artillery and asking anyone with information to contact the White Cliffs.

SHELLING NAZI-OCCUPIED FRANCE AT THE BEHEST OF CHURCHILL: FAN BAY DEEP SHELTER

The Fan Bay Deep Shelter extends 75ft underground in the cliffs on the edge of Fan Hole, White Cliffs, Dover.

Despite being more than 60 years old, the tunnels remain in good condition after they were filled in and abandoned in the 1970s.

Following the Allied evacuation from Dunkirk in May and June 1940, Churchill ordered the gun batteries and tunnels to be constructed to not only defend the area against German batteries - located on the nearby French coast at Cap Blanc Nez and Cap Gris Nez - but also to harass enemy shipping that was passing through the English Channel.

At their peak, they could accommodate up to 185 men and four officers, who worked firing shells across the Channel and into Nazi-occupied France.

The site is also home to two sound mirrors - giant relics from the First World War that were once at the forefront of aircraft detection technology.

However, with the development of rudimentary radar in the 1930s, they were rendered obsolete by the time the nearby tunnels were constructed during the Second World War.

The gun batteries and land were owned by the military until the 1960s, after which it was returned to the original owners who then sold it in 2012 to the National Trust.


Guides will now begin leading hard hat and torch-lit tours into the tunnels, located below the White Cliffs of Dover. Pictured is National Trust volunteer Gordon Wise


 
Last edited:

Blackleaf

Hall of Fame Member
Oct 9, 2004
48,476
1,671
113
12 things you should know about Churchill’s Second World War tunnels under the White Cliffs of Dover

A labyrinth of tunnels built on the order of Winston Churchill beneath the White Cliffs of Dover has opened to the public for the first time today

Monday 20th July 2015
Submitted by: Emma McFarnon
BBC History Magazine
BBC History Magazine - 5 issues for £5


Fan Bay Deep Shelter. © National Trust/Chris Tapley


Located 75 feet underground, Fan Bay Deep Shelter was constructed in the 1940s as part of Dover’s connected offensive and defensive gun batteries, designed to prevent German shipping moving freely in the English Channel.

The shelter accommodated and catered for four officers and up to 185 men of other ranks during counter bombardments.

Forgotten after the Second World War, the tunnels are remarkably well preserved. Here we bring you 12 facts about Fan Bay Deep Shelter, located on the edge of Fan Hole beneath the White Cliffs of Dover…

1) The tunnels were carved out of the chalk cliffs in just 100 days by Royal Engineers from the 172nd Tunnelling Company. Construction of the Fan Bay battery began on 20 November 1940, and the site became fully operational on 28 February 1941.

2) The tunnels were constructed following a visit to Dover by Winston Churchill in July 1940, during which he was enraged to discover enemy shipping moving freely in the English Channel. He sent a memo to the joint chief of staff: “We must insist upon maintaining superior artillery positions on the Dover promontory, no matter what form of attack they are exposed to. We have to fight for command of the Straits by artillery, to destroy the enemy batteries, and fortify our own”.

3) The Fan Bay gun battery was planned as part of the coastal defence network in the months after the Allied evacuation from Dunkirk – by June 1940 the Dover Strait and the White Cliffs had become Britain’s front line in the Second World War. The battery would ultimately help to close the Channel to enemy shipping and deter invasion.


Fan Bay Deep Shelter, the only surviving contemporary image of the tunnels. © Imperial War Museum


4) Constructed 75 feet below ground, the shelter had three entrances and was reinforced by heavy duty iron girders and metal sheeting (equipment borrowed from the coal industry), much of which still survives today.

5) The finished Fan Bay battery boasted some of the most cutting-edge technology and weaponry of the time. It had three six-inch guns, each with a range of 14 miles (one specifically sited to give protection to the entrance to Dover harbour); radar; plotting rooms and five large chambers providing bomb-proof accommodation, with space between bunks designated for rifles. The shelter also featured medical facilities and a secure store. Both the deep shelter and gun battery were personally inspected by Winston Churchill in June 1941. Power was supplied from a dedicated generator room, and the tunnels were ventilated by a system of galvanised ducting running along the ceilings, some of which survives today.

6) The tunnels were manned by troops from the 203rd Coast Battery, Royal Artillery: on 10 December 1940, four officers and 118 men of other ranks arrived from Falmouth. This regiment later became the 540th Coast Regiment, Royal Artillery under a unified command with the gun batteries at South Foreland and Wanstone Farm.


Fan Bay Deep Shelter, main tunnel. © National Trust/Larry Stewart


7) The battery site was chosen because it had been in use during the First World War, when sound mirrors were constructed in the upper cliff face. One of the first early warning devices invented in the UK, sound mirrors gave advanced notice of approaching enemy aircraft. The battery site was also located just 21.5 miles from France – geographically the closest point in the UK to France.

8 ) The shelter is the largest of its kind in Dover and one of the deepest recovered from the period, at 23 metres below the surface. The tunnels are deeper than the nearby South Foreland Lighthouse is high. From today visitors can descend the original 125 steps into more than 3,500 square feet of tunnels.

9) The shelter was decommissioned in the 1950s and filled in during the 1970s. The biggest tunnel in the complex, which is more than 100 feet long, had partially collapsed after vandals had set fire to its wooden supports.


The White Cliffs of Dover, beneath which the Fan Bay Deep Shelter is located. © National Trust/John Miller


10) A large amount of wartime graffiti survives in the tunnels – more than at any other underground site, it is believed. Highlights include coarse inscriptions, rhymes and ditties found close to toilets relating to using the toilet or the lack of toilet paper. One such inscription reads: “If you come into this hall use the paper not this wall. If no paper can be found then run your a*se along the ground”.

Graffiti found elsewhere in the tunnels includes names of military personnel; one political inscription – the phrase “Russia bleeds whilst Britain Blancos” – and several drawings including a running man and a young man’s face. Games of noughts and crosses have also been carved into the walls.

11) Homemade hanging hooks remain intact inside the tunnels. They were fashioned from a variety of materials – anything soldiers could find. Also discovered was a Unity Pools football coupon dated 20 February 1943, which records 14 football matches; British .303 cartridges alongside American 30 calibre ammunition rounds; and a copy of Shadow on the Quarter Deck – a naval adventure novel by Major W P Drury, published in 1903. The book was discovered on top of an air duct.

12) Fan Bay Deep Shelter is located on land purchased by the National Trust in 2012. The remarkably well-preserved tunnels were discovered during enabling works. Over the course of 18 months more than 50 National Trust volunteers excavated and removed 100 tonnes of spoil from the tunnels by hand.


Facts courtesy of the National Trust

To find out more about visiting Fan Bay Deep Shelter, click here.


12 facts about Fan Bay Deep Shelter, Churchill’s Second World War tunnels under the White Cliffs of Dover | History Extra
 
Last edited: