June 27, 2005
Amid the Turmoil, Iraqis Who Seek Historical Perspective, Skills and Solace Turn to Books
By SABRINA TAVERNISE
BAGHDAD, Iraq, June 26 - In a narrow alley off Mutanabi Street, Baghdad's main book market, the Dar al-Bayan bookshop is full of dust and classics. Old men sip tea in the back and talk of times past, before dictatorship, when poets and intellectuals made life here bright.
On the street outside, the new Iraq presses in. Card tables covered with computer manuals, cellphone booklets and how-to guides compete for space on the sidewalk. A vast array of religious books, banned under Saddam Hussein, pack the stalls.
As Iraqis struggle to make sense of the chaos and violence that have consumed their lives during the past two years, books offer some solace. "Reality now is very strange," said Mufeed Jazaery, who was Iraq's culture minister in the recently departed interim government.
"People are trying to put their feet on the ground, but they find themselves still hanging in the air," he said. "Is it quiet or will there be another storm? Is it black or is it white? Is it moving, and, if so, in which direction?"
But as well as showing a changing Iraq, books are also revealing a dividing line between those who grew up before the years of dictatorship, who are reaching for history texts to understand what has happened to their country, and younger Iraqis straining to find answers to more immediate questions about their lives in self-help and how-to books, romance and religious titles.
The Dar al-Bayan shop is steeped in the past. It opened in 1961 and used to be a salon of sorts with famous writers gathering in its few small, book-lined rooms to talk politics and literature. Its owner, Beadiee Khakhani, speaks disparagingly about the titles being sold outside.
"Now it's different," said Mr. Khakhani, 54. "It's less about culture," he said, and more about books with practical themes, like computer manuals and religious guides.
Intellectuals and writers seem particularly disoriented in the new Iraq. Many were alive in the decades before 1968, when the Baath Party took control, which was a time of cultural renaissance in Iraq. But in 1979, when Mr. Hussein became president, he began banning books, singling out writers and intellectuals, jailing them and blocking publication of their work.
The employees of the Dar al-Bayan bookstore used a small crawl space in an attic area to hide favorite books that were banned. Some writers left the country, but many stayed, surviving by meeting secretly and circulating photocopies of banned books.
Faiza Mulla, a lawyer who was educated in Cairo and lived in London for two years in the 1950's, recalled such meetings.
"To many people, it was like oxygen," she said. "This was how we survived."
When Mr. Hussein fell in 2003, Ms. Mulla was elated. She told her daughter that life would return to the way it was, when Baghdad sparkled with a lively cultural scene. Her husband, Mahmoud Uthman, kept a diary, taking down the hopes of neighbors and relatives.
Now, two years later, the entries seem naïve, Mr. Uthman said. Several of the couple's friends have been kidnapped. Some have left the country. Many who stayed have withdrawn from life outside their homes. Ms. Mulla and Mr. Uthman's daughter, who just graduated from college in Iraq with a computer science degree, spends most of her days at home, her future uncertain.
"At the very beginning, everyone was so excited," said Ms. Mulla, sitting in her art-filled house near Baghdad University. "Now I just feel like staying home." Intellectuals interviewed for this article said books about history, in particular the period from the 1920's to the present, when the Iraq state was being formed, were popular, as is a provocative critique of Islam written in the 1930's by an Iraqi nationalist poet, Marouf al-Rasafi, but available in Iraq only recently.
As far as reading about the ousted government itself, the period is still too raw for most. However, Mr. Khakhani said a book by Mr. Hussein's former doctor, Ala Bashir, called "In the Name of Terror," had been selling well.
Some abandon modern history and escape to ancient times. Suha Turaihi, an intellectual in Baghdad, said she was reading a book about Sabians, an ancient religion of Mesopotamia that dates to hundreds of years before Christ and still exists.
"I am just trying to get out of this bitter reality," she said. "To have an exit."
Homegrown novels and nonfiction are lagging. The main publishing house printed 100 titles last year, more than in past years, but nothing really resonated, said Mr. Jazaery, the former culture minister.
The violence has not helped. Beyond the daily car bombs and kidnappings, insurgents have singled out intellectuals, killing 73 professors in 2004, said Dr. Esam al-Rawi the leader of the science college in Baghdad University, according to an Iraqi media report. In April, a professor of German was gunned down in Baghdad, and in May, a bomb damaged several of the bookstores outside of the market at Mutanabi Street.
"Now there is a sleepy state in culture," said Lutfia al-Dulaimy, a writer and novelist. "People are hungry for electricity and security."
Asked who were the most interesting contemporary Iraqi writers, Ms. Dulaimy replied sardonically: "The dead ones."
Young Iraqis are making different choices. At a bookstore in Mustansiriyah University, a large public university here, students flipped through romance novels and books on astrology.
Religious books, mostly on Shiite themes, which were banned under Mr. Hussein but have streamed into Iraq since his fall, were also in abundant supply.
Though college students remain relatively secular, said Zaid Hadithy, the shop owner, young people in the broader population "are going in a religious direction" as they search for a structure for their lives in an environment where the rules have fallen away.
One student browsing in Mr. Hadithy's shop, Ragad Raisan, 19, said she was looking for a book of teachings by Imam Sadeq, a revered Shiite religious figure related to the Prophet Muhammad.
"God is the only one who guides us when we feel confused," she said.
Elsewhere on campus, a conference held by followers of the cleric Moktada al-Sadr was in progress. His pull is strong among young Shiites, who came out in the thousands last August when he called them to fight the American-led forces before he agreed to a cease-fire.
Muhammad Abdul Rudha, a student in the Arabic department, said he preferred reading religious and political books, because "the situation is critical; it requires that."
Mr. Jazaery said he worried about the power of religion among young Iraqis. Anyone who was born after 1980 grew up during Iraq's decline into war and economic sanctions. Corruption and poverty have eroded the once-strong educational system, leaving young people vulnerable to populist leaders like Mr. Sadr.
"They can read, they can write, but they can't understand," Mr. Jazaery said. "That's good for dictatorship and dangerous for democracy. It's a spare army for all hard-line elements."
Whatever the case, the generation gap seems wide. Athir Haddad, a finance professor, said he was elated when some of his students said they were skipping class to protest proposed legislation. He changed his mind when he learned that they knew little about it and were following orders from their cleric.
"For them I am from outer space," Mr. Haddad said.
Khalid al-Ansary and Zaineb Obeid contributed reporting for this article.
Amid the Turmoil, Iraqis Who Seek Historical Perspective, Skills and Solace Turn to Books
By SABRINA TAVERNISE
BAGHDAD, Iraq, June 26 - In a narrow alley off Mutanabi Street, Baghdad's main book market, the Dar al-Bayan bookshop is full of dust and classics. Old men sip tea in the back and talk of times past, before dictatorship, when poets and intellectuals made life here bright.
On the street outside, the new Iraq presses in. Card tables covered with computer manuals, cellphone booklets and how-to guides compete for space on the sidewalk. A vast array of religious books, banned under Saddam Hussein, pack the stalls.
As Iraqis struggle to make sense of the chaos and violence that have consumed their lives during the past two years, books offer some solace. "Reality now is very strange," said Mufeed Jazaery, who was Iraq's culture minister in the recently departed interim government.
"People are trying to put their feet on the ground, but they find themselves still hanging in the air," he said. "Is it quiet or will there be another storm? Is it black or is it white? Is it moving, and, if so, in which direction?"
But as well as showing a changing Iraq, books are also revealing a dividing line between those who grew up before the years of dictatorship, who are reaching for history texts to understand what has happened to their country, and younger Iraqis straining to find answers to more immediate questions about their lives in self-help and how-to books, romance and religious titles.
The Dar al-Bayan shop is steeped in the past. It opened in 1961 and used to be a salon of sorts with famous writers gathering in its few small, book-lined rooms to talk politics and literature. Its owner, Beadiee Khakhani, speaks disparagingly about the titles being sold outside.
"Now it's different," said Mr. Khakhani, 54. "It's less about culture," he said, and more about books with practical themes, like computer manuals and religious guides.
Intellectuals and writers seem particularly disoriented in the new Iraq. Many were alive in the decades before 1968, when the Baath Party took control, which was a time of cultural renaissance in Iraq. But in 1979, when Mr. Hussein became president, he began banning books, singling out writers and intellectuals, jailing them and blocking publication of their work.
The employees of the Dar al-Bayan bookstore used a small crawl space in an attic area to hide favorite books that were banned. Some writers left the country, but many stayed, surviving by meeting secretly and circulating photocopies of banned books.
Faiza Mulla, a lawyer who was educated in Cairo and lived in London for two years in the 1950's, recalled such meetings.
"To many people, it was like oxygen," she said. "This was how we survived."
When Mr. Hussein fell in 2003, Ms. Mulla was elated. She told her daughter that life would return to the way it was, when Baghdad sparkled with a lively cultural scene. Her husband, Mahmoud Uthman, kept a diary, taking down the hopes of neighbors and relatives.
Now, two years later, the entries seem naïve, Mr. Uthman said. Several of the couple's friends have been kidnapped. Some have left the country. Many who stayed have withdrawn from life outside their homes. Ms. Mulla and Mr. Uthman's daughter, who just graduated from college in Iraq with a computer science degree, spends most of her days at home, her future uncertain.
"At the very beginning, everyone was so excited," said Ms. Mulla, sitting in her art-filled house near Baghdad University. "Now I just feel like staying home." Intellectuals interviewed for this article said books about history, in particular the period from the 1920's to the present, when the Iraq state was being formed, were popular, as is a provocative critique of Islam written in the 1930's by an Iraqi nationalist poet, Marouf al-Rasafi, but available in Iraq only recently.
As far as reading about the ousted government itself, the period is still too raw for most. However, Mr. Khakhani said a book by Mr. Hussein's former doctor, Ala Bashir, called "In the Name of Terror," had been selling well.
Some abandon modern history and escape to ancient times. Suha Turaihi, an intellectual in Baghdad, said she was reading a book about Sabians, an ancient religion of Mesopotamia that dates to hundreds of years before Christ and still exists.
"I am just trying to get out of this bitter reality," she said. "To have an exit."
Homegrown novels and nonfiction are lagging. The main publishing house printed 100 titles last year, more than in past years, but nothing really resonated, said Mr. Jazaery, the former culture minister.
The violence has not helped. Beyond the daily car bombs and kidnappings, insurgents have singled out intellectuals, killing 73 professors in 2004, said Dr. Esam al-Rawi the leader of the science college in Baghdad University, according to an Iraqi media report. In April, a professor of German was gunned down in Baghdad, and in May, a bomb damaged several of the bookstores outside of the market at Mutanabi Street.
"Now there is a sleepy state in culture," said Lutfia al-Dulaimy, a writer and novelist. "People are hungry for electricity and security."
Asked who were the most interesting contemporary Iraqi writers, Ms. Dulaimy replied sardonically: "The dead ones."
Young Iraqis are making different choices. At a bookstore in Mustansiriyah University, a large public university here, students flipped through romance novels and books on astrology.
Religious books, mostly on Shiite themes, which were banned under Mr. Hussein but have streamed into Iraq since his fall, were also in abundant supply.
Though college students remain relatively secular, said Zaid Hadithy, the shop owner, young people in the broader population "are going in a religious direction" as they search for a structure for their lives in an environment where the rules have fallen away.
One student browsing in Mr. Hadithy's shop, Ragad Raisan, 19, said she was looking for a book of teachings by Imam Sadeq, a revered Shiite religious figure related to the Prophet Muhammad.
"God is the only one who guides us when we feel confused," she said.
Elsewhere on campus, a conference held by followers of the cleric Moktada al-Sadr was in progress. His pull is strong among young Shiites, who came out in the thousands last August when he called them to fight the American-led forces before he agreed to a cease-fire.
Muhammad Abdul Rudha, a student in the Arabic department, said he preferred reading religious and political books, because "the situation is critical; it requires that."
Mr. Jazaery said he worried about the power of religion among young Iraqis. Anyone who was born after 1980 grew up during Iraq's decline into war and economic sanctions. Corruption and poverty have eroded the once-strong educational system, leaving young people vulnerable to populist leaders like Mr. Sadr.
"They can read, they can write, but they can't understand," Mr. Jazaery said. "That's good for dictatorship and dangerous for democracy. It's a spare army for all hard-line elements."
Whatever the case, the generation gap seems wide. Athir Haddad, a finance professor, said he was elated when some of his students said they were skipping class to protest proposed legislation. He changed his mind when he learned that they knew little about it and were following orders from their cleric.
"For them I am from outer space," Mr. Haddad said.
Khalid al-Ansary and Zaineb Obeid contributed reporting for this article.