Gap, H&M + others trying to defeat 40 cent an hour minimum wage

tay

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Last summer, Gap raised eyebrows when it became the first American apparel company to publicly sign a contract in Myanmar since President Barack Obama eased sanctions. At the time, Gap said, “The apparel industry will play a key role in helping to fuel the economic prosperity of the country.”


But if garment-factory bosses get their way, comparatively little of that newfound wealth will flow to workers.


The Myanmar Garment Manufacturers Association, representing about 350 factories, says the government’s proposed wage is too high and will force employers out of business. It wants its own industry-specific rate of about $2 a day instead.


Starting pay in factories currently hovers around $1 a day.




The newly arrived Western companies, especially Gap and H&M, have trumpeted their support for improved working conditions, voicing concerns over issues such as forced labor, unfair overtime demands and unpermitted subcontracting, while backing the idea of a national minimum wage. In 2013, Burmese officials first announced plans to set a minimum wage, organizing a tripartite commission with representatives of employers, trade unions and the government to come up with a figure. Now that those talks have finally produced a number, Western brands are keeping quiet.


When asked by International Business Times for their views on the proposed rate and the opposition from subcontractors, both Gap and H&M distanced themselves from factory-owner demands to create a two-tier pay system, but declined to endorse the $3.25 rate that’s on the table.




Myanmar attracts foreign apparel companies -- many of them from China and South Korea, but increasingly from the U.S. and Europe -- for one main reason, Vogt says. It’s very cheap. “When you look at labor costs in Vietnam, Cambodia, Bangladesh, they’re all extremely low, but much higher relatively,” he says. “They’re going for the low wages and least difficult regulatory environment.”




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In Myanmar, Garment Factories That Source Popular Brand-Name Clothing Retailers Aim To Defeat A 40-Cent Hourly Minimum Wage#
 

mentalfloss

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Jun 28, 2010
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This is where government needs to step in because you will not have corporations making social contracts unless there is a profit in there for them.

And that's not to blame them or anything - it is the prerogative of a corporation to make a profit and they should be encouraged to do so.

It's the responsibility of government to step in if the are guaranteed, but unintended consequences as a result of this objective.

That's why government and corporations need to work together so we can have a sustainable economy and can still ensure a reasonable standard for workers.
 

tay

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Some of the world's biggest retailers, including Walmart, Gap, and H&M, have failed to improve workplace safety three years after the Rana Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh killed more than 1,100 people and turned a spotlight on dangerous labor conditions faced by some of the world's poorest workers.

A series of new reports released Tuesday by the Asia Floor Wage Alliance, a coalition of rights groups and trade unions, finds that tens of thousands of laborers in Bangladesh are still making garments in buildings without proper fire exits, while pregnant workers in Indonesia and India face discrimination and wage theft.

In Cambodia, workers who demanded an extra $20 a month were shot and killed.

Meanwhile, Walmart has continued to benefit from forced labor in more than a dozen of its supplier factories in India, Cambodia, and Bangladesh, the report found. Workers described "harsh conditions with strict line leaders, tough supervisors and abusive management practices" including verbal abuse, threats, and denial of water breaks.

And due to a lack of transparency in the supply chain, Walmart has been able to evade accountability for many of its abusive practices, the report states.

Some progress among the various retailers has been made, such as structural repairs in several Bangladesh factories, but the delays in improving a vast quantity of conditions are "unacceptable," Workers Rights Consortium executive director Scott Nova told the New York Times.

That includes H&M, which was the first to sign the post-Rana Plaza international deal known as the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh. An earlier report from the Wage Alliance found that the company's factories continue to allow wage theft, sexual harassment, and other workplace abuses in its factories. And many of those buildings have yet to be fitted with proper fire exits, the report (pdf) found.

Anannya Bhattacharjee, the international coordinator for the Wage Alliance, told the Times, "At this point, we do not see H&M working in a way that would prevent another Rana Plaza."

Nova added, "It's so grossly irresponsible to put thousands of workers into a building that doesn't have [fire exits]."

Meanwhile, Gap factories continue to force laborers to put in more than 100 hours a week for poverty wages, the report states.

The reports from a global coalition of trade unions, worker rights, and human rights organizations—including Asia Floor Wage Alliance, Jobs with Justice, National Guestworker Alliance, National Domestic Workers Alliance, and the Clean Clothes Campaign—were released to coincide with the International Labour Organization's (ILO) annual conference, taking place over the next 10 days in Geneva.

The reports expose wide-ranging exploitation and abuse across the seafood and garment sectors, and across the global supply chain as a whole.

"With these reports, which detail specific recommendations to improve working conditions worldwide including specific outlines for a cross-border living wage, the coalition is working to push the ILO to move forward with setting global standards for supply chains that include wage protections, freedom of association and freedom of migration," according to the groups.

Whereas "[c]orporate and multi-stakeholder 'corporate social responsibility' schemes have had little if any positive impact on guaranteeing workers’ rights," International Trade Union Confederation general secretary Sharan Burrow wrote on Tuesday, "[a]n ILO convention on decent work in global supply chains can and should form the backbone of any new approach to labour regulation and enforcement at the international level."

A separate report released Tuesday by the Australia-based Walk Free Foundation found that close to 46 million men, women, and children are enslaved across the world, many of them providing "the low-cost labor that produces consumer goods for markets in Western Europe, Japan, North America, and Australia."

Walmart, Gap, H&M Called Out for Global Worker Exploitation and Abuse | Common Dreams | Breaking News & Views for the Progressive Community
 

mentalfloss

Prickly Curmudgeon Smiter
Jun 28, 2010
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The public is unfortunately misguided on this issue.

Too many people still believe that activist consumerism solves the problem.

It doesn't get resolved without red tape.
 

TenPenny

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Too many people want to buy the cheapest crap they can find on the shelves, and then whine about how the manufacturers achieve the cheapness.
 

Walter

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Corduroy

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But if garment-factory bosses get their way, comparatively little of that newfound wealth will flow to workers.


 

Tecumsehsbones

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Che Guevara t-shirts? It's all about the Guy Fawkes mask nowadays. Get with the times, comrade.

The well-dressed anarchist prefers clothing and accessories mass-produced by multi-national corporations and depicting figures and memes adhered to by several million other rugged individualists.
 

tay

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UPDATE Dec 2016


Garment workers in Bangladesh are trying to push for some of the minimal gains promised to be the result of globalized supply chains - and being met with state violence and firings as a result.
Bangladesh garment manufacturers have sacked at least 1,500 workers, police said Tuesday, after protests over pay led to a week-long shutdown at dozens of factories supplying top Western brands.

Tens of thousands of workers walked out of factories in the manufacturing hub of Ashulia that make clothing for top Western brands like GAP, Zara and H&M earlier this month, prompting concerns over supply during the holiday season.
Police branded the protests illegal and said they had arrested 30 workers including seven union leaders as well as a television reporter covering the unrest.

On Tuesday, they said factory owners had sacked around 1,500 workers and resumed operations, a week after shutting down to try to contain the protests.
What do these workers want?
The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association has rejected the workers’ demand for their pay to be trebled from the current minimum monthly wage of 5,300 taka ($67).

Babul Akhter, head of the Bangladesh Garment and Industrial Workers Federation, accused authorities of using a controversial military-era law to shut down the protests.

“They used (the) Special Powers Act to detain union leaders and workers,” he told AFP.

“Up to 3,500 workers have been sacked and 50 leaders have gone into hiding.”
The Ashulia police chief said only those involved in violent protest had been arrested.
How reassuring.

It’s very easy to sit in the United States or Britain or another wealthy world nation, look at Bangladesh from 30,000 feet and say “The apparel industry is bringing so much to this poor nation!” But doing so also allows westerners to ignore the massive oppression these workers face, painting globalization not even as complicated, but as a moral good, with those who question its value demonized as inhuman monsters.

Instead, what we should do is recognize some of the benefits of globalization while also demanding that American companies accept the basic rights that Bangladeshi workers are fighting for, such as a living wage. Moreover, we need to demand that these companies pay living wages throughout their supply chains no matter where they move. Otherwise, those companies may well respond to rising wages in Bangladesh by moving to some other nation, as they have done over and over and over again, especially in the apparel industry.

These workers have actual demands. Let’s try to ensure that the products we buy are made in decent conditions that empower workers.

Bangladeshi Workers Sure Are Thankful That Our Beneficent Corporations Are Providing Them Great Jobs! - Lawyers, Guns & Money : Lawyers, Guns & Money
 

Johnnny

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Jun 8, 2007
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It is easy to sit here and be like, "meh"... But its not our fault because the majority of us havent left the country for more than a week as a non tourist. Keeps us ignorant