Monks discover 1793 cookbook that includes recipes for Pigs' Ears and chicken curry

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Monks have discovered a recipe book that dates back to 1793 stashed away in their archives, which contains some unusual recipes for pigs' ears and even one of the first chicken curries.

The handwritten pages were compiled by generations of cooks in the kitchen of Begbrook House in Frenchay, near Bristol, which belonged to a wealthy local family.

But when the house was burnt down by suffragettes in 1913, the fragile book of 142 recipes was passed onto the monks at Downside Abbey in Stratton-on-the-Fosse, Somerset.

Is this the earliest Indian takeaway? Monks discover recipe book dating back to 1793 that includes unusual recipes for Pigs' Ears and even a chicken curry


Handwritten book discovered in archives of Downside Abbey, in Somerset

Among the pages are recipes for Fricassee of Pigs' Feet and a pigeon stew

Also one for chicken curry, just 46 years after the first published in English

One intriguingly entitled Turtle Soup details how to make Mockturtle Soup


By Imogen Calderwood For Mailonline
17 January 2016
Daily Mail

Monks have discovered a recipe book that dates back to 1793 stashed away in their archives, which contains some unusual recipes for pigs' ears and even one of the first chicken curries.

The handwritten pages were compiled by generations of cooks in the kitchen of Begbrook House in Frenchay, near Bristol, which belonged to a wealthy local family.

But when the house was burnt down by suffragettes in 1913, the fragile book of 142 recipes was passed onto the monks at Downside Abbey in Stratton-on-the-Fosse, Somerset.


Appetising: Monks at Downside Abbey, in Somerset, discovered a recipe book dating back to 1793 hidden away in the abbey's archives


Well-used: The monks discovered ancient recipes for stews, soups, a Fricassee of Pigs' Feet and even a chicken curry - one of the first published in English


Chicken curry: Curries are popular in Britain as well as the Indian Subcontinent


Among the food-spattered pages of appetising recipes is one for Fricassee of Pigs' Feet and Ears - which is stewed meat served in a thick white sauce - and also a pigeon stew.

The book also contains a recipe for a chicken curry. The first known curry recipe written in English was published just 46 years before the book, by Hannah Glasse in 1747.

'You can tell it's been very well used,' said Dr Simon Johnson, keeper of the Abbey's archives and library.

'It's in pretty good condition, but there are a few splatters of something or other all over it.

'It's in the hand of the actual cook and there's a variety of recipes such as plum loaf and how to cure a ham.

'It seems to be a working kitchen cookbook as opposed to being for special occasions. But it's evoked so much interest because it's a Georgian, Regency cookbook.

'I think people are generally interested in the more domestic parts of history.

'The social history is forgotten - the day to day running of a house.'

One of the most intriguing recipes in the book is one entitled 'Turtle Soup', which requires either two calf's feet or a calf's head.

Rather than a real turtle soup, the recipe details how to make the popular English dish 'Mockturtle soup', which was created in the mid-18th century as a cheaper imitation of green turtle soup.

It often used brains and organ meats such as calf’s head or a calf’s foot to recreate the texture and flavour of the original turtle meat.

The soup is also the basis for the character of the Mock Turtle in Lewis Carroll's Alice's Adventures in Wonderland - in which the author joked that the famous soup was made from these creatures.

One adventurous monk, Dom Christopher Calascione, recreated one of the recipes after the book was discovered - a Sally Lunn bread bun which requires patting 'the tops over with a feather dipt into the yolk of an egg'.


Historic: One adventurous monk even recreated one of the recipes after the book was discovered at Downside Abbey (pictured) in Stratton-on-the-Fosse, Somerset


Family favourites: The recipe book was compiled over generations by cooks working in the kitchens of Begbrook House near Bristol, but the date written in the front cover reads September 19 1793


Hungry? As well as Calves Head Turtle Fashion (left) and Sally Lunns (right), there are some recognisable recipes among the pages, such as semolina pudding, pancakes, carrot soup and even mince pies



Collection: Dr Simon Johnson, keeper of the Abbey's archives and library, said that you can tell the book was very well used in the kitchens

'As the monastery has been in existence for nearly 500 years we have picked up a lot of archives - ancient papers and books - and among them this recipe book appeared,' he said.

The book was only discovered when the Benedictine monks at the abbey in Radstock started exploring the private collection.

There are also some more recognisable recipes among the pages, such as semolina pudding, pancakes, carrot soup and even mince pies.

The monastic library was opened to the public last year after a major refurbishment.

CALf'S HEAD TURTLE FASHION

'Take a calves [sic] head, and scald off the skin, as you would that of a pig. When cleaned, cut the horny part into thin slices with the lean. Have ready three pints of gravy (strong). Put it on to stew for some time then add Cayan [sic] and salt to your taste, with a large onion and the rind of a lemon, shred as small as possible, otherwise sweet herbs, and a very small proportion of spice.

After stewing some time add a full half pint of Madeira, with the juice of two lemons. When the horn is tender, take it off, fry the meat balls, then put it in the dish you intend to send to table, with two ounces of butter put in small bits about it with a dozen large oysters... Set it into the oven to brown. Takes a full quarter of an hour doing.

NB. If a large calf head it will require a trifle more butter.